Thursday, June 28, 2007
Favorite Summer Wines
Please post your comments to this forum telling us about your favorite wines to enjoy during the summer. We will be adding our own recommendations throughout the month.
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Where Should Wine Be Stored and How Should I Treat My Wine?
Critical to the longevity of a wine are the conditions under which the wine has been stored. Wine storage methods run the gamut, from the very simple to the most complicated, scientific solutions. Many customers choose a method without first understanding the basic tenets of wine storage. A model for ideal wine storage is found in Europe’s top vineyards, where wine is stored in dark, damp, humid underground caves that naturally maintain a constant, cool temperature year round. It is important to keep these conditions in mind when considering your own wine storage solution.
Customers often ask me whether wines that they have kept in their homes for many years are still ‘drinkable’. In order to answer that question, I must ask several others:
What type of wine are we talking about? As a rule of thumb, reds and whites have different ageability characteristics. Reds wines tend to be more age worthy than whites (with the exception of dessert wines); however, this is by no means an absolute. Some whites have been known to age for decades. Some red wines and Sauternes have been known to age for over 100 years and still drink well. Most wines currently sold in retail shops are ready to drink or need only a few years of cellaring (knowing how long to cellar your wine, if at all, is a detailed topic that will be discussed in a future article). I recommend asking your retailer which wines are ready to drink. I often hear customers say that they are not interested in current vintage wines that are ready to drink (i.e., 2004 Cabernet) – however, these wines can be as good as any. The main reason that cellaring began was because the wines needed time, not because people wanted to wait 20 years before drinking them. Modern wine making techniques allow for wines to be smoother, softer, more balanced and livelier at a younger age.
Wine may be a serious business, but it can also be serious fun! When is comes to everyday $10 - $40 wines you have to have an open mind. I would worry more about the types of wines I like (fruity, earthy, light, full, oaky, buttery, etc.) than what the vintage is and even, in some cases, what grape it is.
Where has the wine been stored? If the answer is “In my wine cellar”, a whole new dialogue is opened concerning the nature of the cellar. There are several fundamental rules when it comes to wine storage. Every effort made toward reaching these ideals improves the conditions under which your wine is stored. These rules apply to both long and short-term storage; however they are much more important when considering the long-term cellaring of your wine.
Is your cellar a room? Is it a dedicated space that has active climate control (i.e. EuroCave, professionally installed wine room) or is it a room in your basement that ‘seems’ to be the right temperature (otherwise known as a passive wine cellar)? Or, is it the space just above your refrigerator? If it’s the later, you should think twice before ageing your wine in that space as just about every cellaring rule is broken here.
What is the average temperature? The ideal temperature for ageing your wines is 55-58 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures below 55 degrees can inhibit the ageing process. Contrary to popular belief, wine will freeze (and Champagne will explode) if stored at very low temperatures. If your wine is ever frozen, I would recommend throwing it out. Temperatures above 60 degrees can speed up the ageing process – a wine that may have needed 5 years of ageing at 56 degrees may now only need 3 years. Furthermore, temperatures in excess of 80 degrees can begin to “cook” your wine, ruining the wine in a matter of hours. When wine leaves our shop on a hot summer day, I always wonder whether it is going to sit in my customer’s car for too long. A good rule of thumb is if it’s too hot to leave your dog in your parked car, it is definitely too hot to leave your wine. The temperature ranges and cutoffs that I mentioned are rough estimates. There are many conflicting theories on the proper temperature for wine storage, and different types of wine require different storage conditions.
What is the constancy/fluctuation in temperature? Arguably more important than the average temperature, constancy of temperature is paramount to assuring the long-term ageability of your wines. If I had a choice between two different storage locations, one that had a constant temperature of 63 degrees and the other that fluctuated between 54 and 60 degrees, I would choose the location with the constant temperature. With any cellar there are sacrifices – however temperature fluctuation is one area that has little margin for error. Where a higher than average constant temperature will merely speed up the ageing process of the wine, repeated swings in temperature will quickly ruin wine. The fruit will become noticeably absent and the wine will begin to taste oxidized, like sherry.
What is the humidity level? Wine should ideally be stored at a humidity level of 50% to 70%. I prefer the level to be at the higher end of the range. Humidity levels ensure that the corks stay moist. A moist cork will prevent the drawing of moisture from the wine bottle into the storage environment, and will prevent oxygen from entering the bottle. When humidity levels are too low, the wine will begin to evaporate out of the bottle through the cork. Levels in excess of 70% can promote mold growth on the outside of bottles, and can damage labels, making the wine bottle less valuable to some collectors. However, I have not found that excess humidity damages the wine itself, and thus favor a 70% humidity level. It can be challenging to create an environment with this high level of humidity. The convenient little wine refrigerators that have become so popular do not actively control humidity (in fact they actively remove humidity from the air) and can damage wine in a relatively short amount of time. I recommend these units for short term storage only. There are, however, units of all sizes that provide humidity control. These units are significantly more expensive than their non-humidifying counterparts (often three or four times the cost). On another note, screw cap bottle closures seem to shine here, as there is no evidence that a screw cap closure is compromised by a low humidity environment. I think it is safe to assume that all of the other storage factors affect screw caps, however.
Is the wine exposed to light or is it kept in darkness? Light can be a silent killer of wine. UV rays are known to have negative effects on wine – the flavor is said to go ‘flat’ and taste stale after prolonged light exposure. When considering long term storage options, it is very important to minimize the amount of natural and artificial light radiating on your wine. Most modern wine bottles have some form of UV protection (some better than others). While this is not a complete solution to eliminating light exposure during long term storage, it sufficiently protects your wine during short term storage. Either way, it is best to minimize light exposure whenever possible.
Is the wine being stored near a source of vibration, such as a refrigerator compressor or stereo speaker? It is believed, while not universally, that vibration can ruin wine. Erring on the side of caution, I recommend that you try to minimize vibration of your wine as it can cause short-term disturbances in the wine. When left still, sediment is allowed to settle at the bottom of the bottle – if the bottle is shaken, the sediment will briefly go back into solution. It is unclear, however, whether this can have a long-term effect on the wine.
None of the rules outlined above are without exception. Some of the temperature ranges provided are median ranges, and therefore do not apply to specific wines in your collection. It is highly recommended that you consult a professional before investing in your wine storage system. The better the environment you provide, the better chance you have of preserving your wines properly. More than any other factor, humidity is what separates novice from professional wine cellars. I welcome any comments or questions you may have. Please post your comments to the blog, so everyone can see them. I look forward to seeing you in the Shop!
Customers often ask me whether wines that they have kept in their homes for many years are still ‘drinkable’. In order to answer that question, I must ask several others:
What type of wine are we talking about? As a rule of thumb, reds and whites have different ageability characteristics. Reds wines tend to be more age worthy than whites (with the exception of dessert wines); however, this is by no means an absolute. Some whites have been known to age for decades. Some red wines and Sauternes have been known to age for over 100 years and still drink well. Most wines currently sold in retail shops are ready to drink or need only a few years of cellaring (knowing how long to cellar your wine, if at all, is a detailed topic that will be discussed in a future article). I recommend asking your retailer which wines are ready to drink. I often hear customers say that they are not interested in current vintage wines that are ready to drink (i.e., 2004 Cabernet) – however, these wines can be as good as any. The main reason that cellaring began was because the wines needed time, not because people wanted to wait 20 years before drinking them. Modern wine making techniques allow for wines to be smoother, softer, more balanced and livelier at a younger age.
Wine may be a serious business, but it can also be serious fun! When is comes to everyday $10 - $40 wines you have to have an open mind. I would worry more about the types of wines I like (fruity, earthy, light, full, oaky, buttery, etc.) than what the vintage is and even, in some cases, what grape it is.
Where has the wine been stored? If the answer is “In my wine cellar”, a whole new dialogue is opened concerning the nature of the cellar. There are several fundamental rules when it comes to wine storage. Every effort made toward reaching these ideals improves the conditions under which your wine is stored. These rules apply to both long and short-term storage; however they are much more important when considering the long-term cellaring of your wine.
Is your cellar a room? Is it a dedicated space that has active climate control (i.e. EuroCave, professionally installed wine room) or is it a room in your basement that ‘seems’ to be the right temperature (otherwise known as a passive wine cellar)? Or, is it the space just above your refrigerator? If it’s the later, you should think twice before ageing your wine in that space as just about every cellaring rule is broken here.
What is the average temperature? The ideal temperature for ageing your wines is 55-58 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures below 55 degrees can inhibit the ageing process. Contrary to popular belief, wine will freeze (and Champagne will explode) if stored at very low temperatures. If your wine is ever frozen, I would recommend throwing it out. Temperatures above 60 degrees can speed up the ageing process – a wine that may have needed 5 years of ageing at 56 degrees may now only need 3 years. Furthermore, temperatures in excess of 80 degrees can begin to “cook” your wine, ruining the wine in a matter of hours. When wine leaves our shop on a hot summer day, I always wonder whether it is going to sit in my customer’s car for too long. A good rule of thumb is if it’s too hot to leave your dog in your parked car, it is definitely too hot to leave your wine. The temperature ranges and cutoffs that I mentioned are rough estimates. There are many conflicting theories on the proper temperature for wine storage, and different types of wine require different storage conditions.
What is the constancy/fluctuation in temperature? Arguably more important than the average temperature, constancy of temperature is paramount to assuring the long-term ageability of your wines. If I had a choice between two different storage locations, one that had a constant temperature of 63 degrees and the other that fluctuated between 54 and 60 degrees, I would choose the location with the constant temperature. With any cellar there are sacrifices – however temperature fluctuation is one area that has little margin for error. Where a higher than average constant temperature will merely speed up the ageing process of the wine, repeated swings in temperature will quickly ruin wine. The fruit will become noticeably absent and the wine will begin to taste oxidized, like sherry.
What is the humidity level? Wine should ideally be stored at a humidity level of 50% to 70%. I prefer the level to be at the higher end of the range. Humidity levels ensure that the corks stay moist. A moist cork will prevent the drawing of moisture from the wine bottle into the storage environment, and will prevent oxygen from entering the bottle. When humidity levels are too low, the wine will begin to evaporate out of the bottle through the cork. Levels in excess of 70% can promote mold growth on the outside of bottles, and can damage labels, making the wine bottle less valuable to some collectors. However, I have not found that excess humidity damages the wine itself, and thus favor a 70% humidity level. It can be challenging to create an environment with this high level of humidity. The convenient little wine refrigerators that have become so popular do not actively control humidity (in fact they actively remove humidity from the air) and can damage wine in a relatively short amount of time. I recommend these units for short term storage only. There are, however, units of all sizes that provide humidity control. These units are significantly more expensive than their non-humidifying counterparts (often three or four times the cost). On another note, screw cap bottle closures seem to shine here, as there is no evidence that a screw cap closure is compromised by a low humidity environment. I think it is safe to assume that all of the other storage factors affect screw caps, however.
Is the wine exposed to light or is it kept in darkness? Light can be a silent killer of wine. UV rays are known to have negative effects on wine – the flavor is said to go ‘flat’ and taste stale after prolonged light exposure. When considering long term storage options, it is very important to minimize the amount of natural and artificial light radiating on your wine. Most modern wine bottles have some form of UV protection (some better than others). While this is not a complete solution to eliminating light exposure during long term storage, it sufficiently protects your wine during short term storage. Either way, it is best to minimize light exposure whenever possible.
Is the wine being stored near a source of vibration, such as a refrigerator compressor or stereo speaker? It is believed, while not universally, that vibration can ruin wine. Erring on the side of caution, I recommend that you try to minimize vibration of your wine as it can cause short-term disturbances in the wine. When left still, sediment is allowed to settle at the bottom of the bottle – if the bottle is shaken, the sediment will briefly go back into solution. It is unclear, however, whether this can have a long-term effect on the wine.
None of the rules outlined above are without exception. Some of the temperature ranges provided are median ranges, and therefore do not apply to specific wines in your collection. It is highly recommended that you consult a professional before investing in your wine storage system. The better the environment you provide, the better chance you have of preserving your wines properly. More than any other factor, humidity is what separates novice from professional wine cellars. I welcome any comments or questions you may have. Please post your comments to the blog, so everyone can see them. I look forward to seeing you in the Shop!
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Why do we let wine breathe?
From the moment that a bottle of wine is opened and the wine is exposed to oxygen, it begins to change. This process is referred to as "breathing". The technical term for the change that occurs in the wine when it is exposed to air is oxidation.
If you have ever cut an apple in half and left it out on the kitchen counter for a while, you may have noticed that it begins to turn brown. This is evidence of oxidation. Much the same way that metal oxidizes and turns to rust, fruit oxidizes and changes chemically. If you have had the opportunity to taste the apple when it is first cut open and then again once it has oxidized you would notice that the apple tastes different. I find that after a short oxidation period (maybe an hour or so), the apple will appear to taste sweeter and have lower acidity. If the apple started out too tart or acidic, the breathing period may make the apple taste better due to the lower level of acidity. If the apple started out ripe and sweet to begin with, the breathing period may not be necessary and may actually result in a degradation in quality. The exact same principals apply to wines with regard to their tannin, acidity, and "fruitiness".
The amount of time it may be necessary for a wine to breathe in order to reach its peak depends on the varietal, age and complexity of a particular wine, and perhaps most important, your personal preferences. Oxygen can soften the tannin and help tight, closed wines develop their fruit flavor and balance in a relatively short period of time. Breathing can shorten the ageing process to hours instead of years. If a wine gets too much oxygen, it will fatigue and the fruit will dissipate. Wines that are older will often be more sensitive to the breathing process (i.e. the fruit will dissipate quicker in older wines as they breathe). So the trick to letting wine breathe is finding the balance between softening of tannin and dissipation of fruit.
Of course there is an alternative, let the wine breathe in the glass! Pour the wine in your glass when it is first opened, taste it, wait a while, taste it again, and repeat. You should notice changes in the wine as it continues to breathe.
The breathing process can be sped up by decanting the wine or simply by swirling it in the glass.
Unfortunately, most wines do not come with instructions on whether or not to let the wine breathe prior to serving and for how long. Fortunately most modern, moderately priced wines are ready to drink right away and require very little, if any breathing time.
Friday, March 09, 2007
If you only want wines with a traditional cork you may be ‘screwed’!
After speaking with many of you during your wine purchases, we have noticed a widespread misapprehension of the Stelvin or screwcap closure on bottles. While we agree that the screwcap lacks the visual effect and character of a traditional cork, the functional benefits of a screwcap far outweigh the aesthetics. After all, it’s what’s in the bottle that ultimately matters right?
What makes a perfect cork?
In ancient times the Romans used olive oil to seal the amphoras of their wine. They believed the oil would sit on top of the wine and prevent air from affecting it. While olive oil provided all of the necessary components that we look for in today’s wine bottle closures, it is less practical today because of the often lengthy journey from the vineyard to your dinner table. Most importantly, a good cork should not breathe, that is, it should not allow for air exchange. Letting air into the bottle inevitably causes variation from one bottle to the next, as producers are unable to control the ‘breathability’ or porosity of the cork with any consistency. The ageing process for wine is anaerobic and, unlike traditional cork, screwcaps make a perfect seal.
Why was cork used?
Though its history can be traced back to early civilization, the application of cork as a modern day wine stopper was engineered by the 17th century monk, Dom Pérignon. Cork was ideal for because it was pliable enough to compress into the neck of a glass bottle, yet firm enough to stay in position and prevent air exchange.
What is TCA? What does it mean when a bottle is ‘corked’?
The chemical 2,4,6-trichloroanisole, or TCA, which is known to be present in natural cork, is the main cause of cork taint in wine (otherwise known as a ‘corked’ bottle). When you go to a fine restaurant and the sommelier pours one taste of the wine before filling everyone else’s glass, one of the things the taster is supposed to check for is cork taint. TCA, which is often undetectable at low levels, imparts an odor similar to that of wet cardboard or moldy newspaper when present at higher levels. Only about 1 – 2% of all bottled wine have high levels of TCA. A much higher percentage of wine is affected by low levels of TCA, which results in the loss of fruit and other flavors, without causing a noticeably unpleasant odor. While TCA is not the only chemical known to be present in cork and to cause damage to wine, it is the most prevalent.
What is so great about screwcaps?
While there is still limited empirical evidence to support the long term agability of wine under screwcaps, the interim results suggest that the longevity of wine in the bottle under screwcap is much greater than the same wine bottled under traditional cork. Screwcaps are made of metal coated with a polymer, which is similar to that of Saran Wrap and does not react with the wine. The use of a polymer ensures that the metal does not come into contact with the wine at all, and helps to create an airtight seal.
Despite the assertion that wine needs to breathe a little during its ageing process, there is simply too much variation in the current supply of cork and many consumers are tired of playing ‘Russian roulette’ with their fine wine purchases. Imagine (if you have not experienced it first hand) opening a bottle that you have been holding for 10 or 20 years only to find that it has oxidized and turned to vinegar. Many high-end producers around the world are betting that this spoilage could be prevented by using a screwcap and are setting aside a small portion of their production each year in search of proof. If it is shown that screwcaps do indeed extend the life of a wine, the implications would be far reaching and many of the gurus who review wines for trade magazines such as Wine Spectator would have to adjust their ideal drinking windows for all wines.
Unlike most industry trends, which are fueled by consumer preferences, currently, the push towards screwcaps is being driven from the top of the supply chain down to consumers. Those ‘in the know’ within the industry feel so strongly about the benefits of screwcaps, that they are essentially ignoring customers’ resistance to them.
At Rye Brook Wine and Spirit Shop we think there are a lot of merits to the screwcap and encourage you share your ‘two cents’ on the issue as the debate continues. Please post a comment to our new wine blog at http://ewineblogger.blogspot.com/.
Additionally, if you are interested in knowing more about this subject, below please find links to the articles we used in compiling our research for this article:
Steinman, Harvey (2006, June 13). Straight Dope On Screwcaps. Wine Spectator Online. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Blogs/Blog_Detail/0,4211,268,00.html
Suckling, James (2006, October 27) James Suckling Uncorked: Screw Cap Brunellos and Barolos? Wine Spectator Online. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Blogs/Blog_Detail/0,4211,572,00.html
Suckling, James (2005, March 31). The Genie in the Bottle: The Virtues of cork go Beyond Mere Science. Wine Spectator Online. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Archives/Show_Article/0,1275,4994,00.html
Amorim Coporation. The Natural Choice: History or Cork As a Wine Closure. Amorim Corporate Website. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.corkfacts.com/contpges/histmain.htm
What makes a perfect cork?
In ancient times the Romans used olive oil to seal the amphoras of their wine. They believed the oil would sit on top of the wine and prevent air from affecting it. While olive oil provided all of the necessary components that we look for in today’s wine bottle closures, it is less practical today because of the often lengthy journey from the vineyard to your dinner table. Most importantly, a good cork should not breathe, that is, it should not allow for air exchange. Letting air into the bottle inevitably causes variation from one bottle to the next, as producers are unable to control the ‘breathability’ or porosity of the cork with any consistency. The ageing process for wine is anaerobic and, unlike traditional cork, screwcaps make a perfect seal.
Why was cork used?
Though its history can be traced back to early civilization, the application of cork as a modern day wine stopper was engineered by the 17th century monk, Dom Pérignon. Cork was ideal for because it was pliable enough to compress into the neck of a glass bottle, yet firm enough to stay in position and prevent air exchange.
What is TCA? What does it mean when a bottle is ‘corked’?
The chemical 2,4,6-trichloroanisole, or TCA, which is known to be present in natural cork, is the main cause of cork taint in wine (otherwise known as a ‘corked’ bottle). When you go to a fine restaurant and the sommelier pours one taste of the wine before filling everyone else’s glass, one of the things the taster is supposed to check for is cork taint. TCA, which is often undetectable at low levels, imparts an odor similar to that of wet cardboard or moldy newspaper when present at higher levels. Only about 1 – 2% of all bottled wine have high levels of TCA. A much higher percentage of wine is affected by low levels of TCA, which results in the loss of fruit and other flavors, without causing a noticeably unpleasant odor. While TCA is not the only chemical known to be present in cork and to cause damage to wine, it is the most prevalent.
What is so great about screwcaps?
While there is still limited empirical evidence to support the long term agability of wine under screwcaps, the interim results suggest that the longevity of wine in the bottle under screwcap is much greater than the same wine bottled under traditional cork. Screwcaps are made of metal coated with a polymer, which is similar to that of Saran Wrap and does not react with the wine. The use of a polymer ensures that the metal does not come into contact with the wine at all, and helps to create an airtight seal.
Despite the assertion that wine needs to breathe a little during its ageing process, there is simply too much variation in the current supply of cork and many consumers are tired of playing ‘Russian roulette’ with their fine wine purchases. Imagine (if you have not experienced it first hand) opening a bottle that you have been holding for 10 or 20 years only to find that it has oxidized and turned to vinegar. Many high-end producers around the world are betting that this spoilage could be prevented by using a screwcap and are setting aside a small portion of their production each year in search of proof. If it is shown that screwcaps do indeed extend the life of a wine, the implications would be far reaching and many of the gurus who review wines for trade magazines such as Wine Spectator would have to adjust their ideal drinking windows for all wines.
Unlike most industry trends, which are fueled by consumer preferences, currently, the push towards screwcaps is being driven from the top of the supply chain down to consumers. Those ‘in the know’ within the industry feel so strongly about the benefits of screwcaps, that they are essentially ignoring customers’ resistance to them.
At Rye Brook Wine and Spirit Shop we think there are a lot of merits to the screwcap and encourage you share your ‘two cents’ on the issue as the debate continues. Please post a comment to our new wine blog at http://ewineblogger.blogspot.com/.
Additionally, if you are interested in knowing more about this subject, below please find links to the articles we used in compiling our research for this article:
Steinman, Harvey (2006, June 13). Straight Dope On Screwcaps. Wine Spectator Online. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Blogs/Blog_Detail/0,4211,268,00.html
Suckling, James (2006, October 27) James Suckling Uncorked: Screw Cap Brunellos and Barolos? Wine Spectator Online. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Blogs/Blog_Detail/0,4211,572,00.html
Suckling, James (2005, March 31). The Genie in the Bottle: The Virtues of cork go Beyond Mere Science. Wine Spectator Online. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Archives/Show_Article/0,1275,4994,00.html
Amorim Coporation. The Natural Choice: History or Cork As a Wine Closure. Amorim Corporate Website. Retrieved March 5, 2007, from http://www.corkfacts.com/contpges/histmain.htm
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